Mexico

Top 100: Why Divers Love Cozumel

Top 100: Cozumel

Scan any dive-center calendar and you’ll likely find a Cozumel trip planned. It’s almost a rite of passage, but also so much more: walls, currents and big animals. Those are just a few of the reasons the destination has mesmerized exploratory types like Guillermo Mendoza, co-founder of the on-island Aldora Divers. Mendoza discovered anchors and cannons from a Spanish galleon on the northeast coast, plus six caves lined with sleeping sharks. First-timers can target shore dives and shallower stretches along the wall, but if this isn’t your first logbook, ask Mendoza about the sharks, the veins of tunnels running through the walls and windward-side diving — then see if your appetite is anything but whetted.

Sheer Fun

Cozumel is known as a drift-diving fun house of wild rides and nonstop adrenaline rushes, but it’s the walls that scored big: Mexico’s east coast ranked in the top five for best wall diving in our 2015 Top 100 Readers Choice survey. These drop-offs owe their oversize gorgonians and corals in part to currents that never let sediment settle. And when fast water rushes in, it’s safe to expect bigger wildlife, such as green and loggerhead turtles, nurse sharks and green moray eels.

Lessons Included

It’s an education that can happen quickly. The challenging combination of too-perfect visibility and walls that drop well below recreational limits can have you cruising along a site like Santa Rosa Wall, minding a depth gauge that reads 70 feet — until an eagle ray soars past.

Toggle off the sound feature on your dive computer and you might not notice how quickly you plummet. It’s moments like these — and the environs in general — that make a perfect classroom for sharpening skills such as buoyancy control, buddy awareness or simply diving deep. Add it up and you see why Cozumel took the No. 2 spot as the best destination for advanced diving in the Caribbean and Atlantic.

No Diver Left Behind

Cozumel remains a go-to group getaway for good reason, especially its value. If you’re traveling solo, this still benefits you. On any given day, there’s no shortage of buddies for shore diving or sharing a conversation over an after-scuba margarita.

“People who come by themselves have already made friends by the middle of the week,” says Henry Zapata, instructor at Scuba Club Cozumel. He adds that divers traveling solo need wait no more than five minutes to find a group to join for a dip.

It’s in part due to this ease of finding a buddy — and the access of house reefs — that pushed the island to score second place in its region for shore diving.

Windward-Side Surprise

Every island has at least two sides, and you’ll likely find Mendoza on Cozumel’s windward one. It’s where he discovered that Spanish galleon, and where he regularly drops in to swim alongside massive sea fans and brain corals, overgrown like fields of waist-high grass.

Says Mendoza of the island’s northeast tip, “I love that reef because the density of brain corals and sea fans is so high.”

Small Island, Big Variety

It would be easy to pack a week with nothing but diving, sunning on beaches and sipping tequila with new amigos — but then you’d be missing the saltwater crocodiles, mangrove kayaking and the lighthouse of Punta Sur Eco Beach Park, the natural playground on the island’s southern tip.

Start with a climb up the Celarain Lighthouse to gain a bird’s-eye view of the area. Then play on the pristine white-sand beach, join a kayak tour and learn about the crocs, or take a boat ride across the lagoon. If you’re really feeling adventurous, rent a jeep and set your own pace heading north along the island’s wind-swept eastern coast.

NEED TO KNOW

When To Go Cozumel is a year-round dive destination, with summer offering the better deals on hotels and airfare.

Travel Tip If you can’t find a direct flight at a price you like, try landing in Cancún. The drive to Playa del Carmen takes less than an hour. From there, hop aboard one of two ferries, which depart every 90 minutes, seven days a week.

Dive Conditions Water temperatures in summer warm to 85 degrees, cooling to 75 in winter — but not without perks. The cooler waters bring in higher numbers of eagle rays.

Top 100: Why Divers Love Cozumel Read More »

Get 32% Off on Caradonna’s Deal in Cozumel

Fiesta Americana Cozumel

Save 32% off end of year travel through December 17, 2015

Save 32% off end of year travel through December 17, 2015 at the completely renovated Fiesta Americana Cozumel now has a modern design with a private beach club and over-water sunbeds, and on-site snorkeling and dive trips from Dive House, it’s a fun upscale fun vacation— and it’s all-inclusive. Close to the islands best dive sites, and just minutes from lively San Miguel. Chankanaab Natural Park, Mayan ruins, the Cozumel Museum, shopping, nightlife, golf, and other attractions are within easy reach of Fiesta Americana Cozumel.

Package includes:
7 night deluxe oceanview accommodations
5 days of 2-tank boat dives
All meals, snacks, and by the glass beverages including house brand alcohol
$350 in resort credits to be used on applicable items
Daily entertainment
Roundtrip airport transfers
Hotel tax and service charges
Travel through 12/17/15
Book by 11/18/15

Caradonna Dive Adventures

Price: $1,218 pp/dbl
Start Date: Nov 2nd, 2015
End Date: Dec 17th, 2015
Travel must be booked by: Nov 18th, 2015
Website: travel.caradonna.com/
Booking Email Address: sales@caradonna.com
Booking Telephone: 1.800.329.9989

Get 32% Off on Caradonna’s Deal in Cozumel Read More »

DEMA 2015 Specials by Pro Dive Mexico

DEMA 2015 Specials by Pro Dive Mexico

Get pampered with our Ultimate Dive Experience, a stay-and-dive concept at Occidental Allegro Cozumel that is unique in the Caribbean!

Fantastic group specials, free stay & dive …

DEMA 2015 Specials by Pro Dive Mexico Read More »

The Magic of Cave Diving: Five Training Courses You Need to Take

These Five Courses Will Help You Discover a Deeper Self — Literally

Shining a light into the unknown — there’s nothing that feels more like exploration. But that’s not the only reason divers who enter caves become hooked. It’s a sport where record-breaking discoveries happen every year, and there’s no shortage of boundaries yet to be crossed. But underground glory isn’t the real reason to consider cave train- ing. Even if you never venture much farther than the sun shines, these courses will give you a degree of physical and mental confidence you never thought you could muster.

CAVERN DIVER

“I’ve had students who have recently finished open water training and have just 25 dives under their belt up to advanced trimix open water instructors,” says Johnny Richards of those who enroll in his cavern diver courses.

Dive Rite LX20 Dive Light

Zach Stovall

Gear Essentials: Cave Diving Light

“You’ll need a cave diving light, and you’ll get a lot out of it for other types of diving. Also, ditch the console computer and get a multigas wrist-model computer.” — Karl Shreeves

Contact: diverite.com

All must relearn buoyancy, given that the jump from open water to overhead environments can be jarring.

“Open water is very forgiving,” says Richards. “Vary 3 to 5 feet and it’s no big deal — but in a cave, that can put you on the floor or ceiling.” To help divers cement a new buoyancy foundation, focusing on fine-tuning trim and breathing, Richards instructs in north Florida’s cave systems. These caves better prepare students for one reason: They have flow. On entry, divers power against a current measured in millions of gallons per day. “Flow affects everything — trim, buoyancy, propulsion,” Richards says.

Richards’ favorite classroom is Devil’s Den in Williston, Florida, about 100 miles northwest of Orlando. This cave extends 35,000 feet and flows at 42 million gallons per day.

“Train in complex environments and you’ll easily go anywhere that’s not as challenging,” says Richards. “If you know what Devil’s feels like, you can get a sense of other places.”

Environments like Devil’s Den also help divers shed another nasty habit: the instinct to kick more than necessary.

On the return route, these caves present yet another challenge. “With flow behind you, you have to anticipate buoyancy-control changes before they’re needed,” says Richards. “As I approach the exit at Devil’s Ear, it’s imperative
I make buoyancy changes before that change in depth — otherwise, if I’m neutral, with flow behind me, I’ll have a sudden rapid ascent.”

But even this situation is one that students build up to, starting at Ginnie Springs, 80 miles west of Jacksonville, or an hour north of Devil’s Den. Ginnie, another high-flow cave, is even better suited to beginners thanks to its flow of 35 million gallons per day and a coarse-sand bottom.

“Generally speaking, high-flow cave means low silt potential,” says Richards.

For new cave divers, almost always guilty of kicking too much, this means their zealotry won’t result in a fog of silt and lost visibility for too long. But causing a silt-out is part of the process; divers gain an understanding of what it feels like to have successes and failures. Says Richards, “This isn’t a course where I expect divers to come in and know what they should be doing — it’s a time where a lot of mistakes can happen.”

Go Now: cavediving.com


INTRO TO CAVE DIVING

One of the first things aspiring cave divers must get used to is starting expeditions in the middle of nowhere — often a field or forgotten forest, reachable only by two-track dirt roads. To access Mermaid’s Lair, one of cave diving instructor Cristina Zenato’s favorite classrooms, start by heading to the eastern side of Grand Bahama.

ScubaPro MK25 EVO/G260 Scuba Diving Regulator

Gear Essentials: High-End Regulators

“At this level, you start using an H-valve with two independent regulators. You want robust life support that is dependable, with high performance. You should also look for an oxygen regulator, deco cylinder and backup computer.” — Karl Shreeves

Contact: scubapro.com

“Old Freetown Road is abandoned,” says Zenato. “It used to connect the two sides of the island, and now it’s just a very nice, scenic drive that adds to the adventurous feel.”

Mermaid’s Lair is worth the trek due to how well it suits the needs of beginners. For starters, Zenato rerigged the ropes running through the cave.

“I changed the line, so it’s continuous, with no navigational changes — you can’t take jumps or turns.” Neither of which is allowed in the intro course.

In other words, getting lost would be pretty hard. Nor is depth an issue: Mermaid’s Lair dips to roughly 70 feet, giving divers ample time to practice buoyancy and what Zenato considers the key skill to begin developing at this level: global awareness.

“When you’re cave diving, you can’t think about just one thing,” she says. “You have to be like a little computer, calculating all these things at once, like the line, the light, the cave — and your buddy.”

Part of global awareness is taking in the environment — and that can mean appreciating the scenery.

“In Mermaid’s Lair, the formations change from a rusty orange to a sheen of black to yellowish-white crystals — and then, all of a sudden, everything is covered in black crystals. You don’t expect it to be so different in such a short environment,” says Zenato.

It’s something she’s reminded of nearly every time she shares the cave with someone new. She can hear the “ooh” through the regulator. And afterward, reactions vary wildly.

“Some people talk nonstop, and some are silent, and I can tell their hearts are so full with what they just experienced,” says Zenato. “Either way, I know when they’re hooked.”

Go Now: unexso.com


FULL CAVE DIVER

For Alessandra Figari, graduating a full cave diver is like set- ting a tourist loose in a Venice glass shop. If divers meet her standards for the course, she knows they’re skilled enough to closely approach formations as delicate and unique as hand-blown curios.

Bare Sports X-Mission Drysuit

Zach Stovall

Gear Essentials: Drysuit

“As you go deeper into caves, your dives get longer and a drysuit becomes necessary, especially for the cooler waters found in north Florida cave diving. In warmer waters, such as in Mexico’s Yucatan cave systems, a full 7 mm wetsuit with a hood will usually suffice up to about three hours — beyond that, you might want to wear a drysuit even there.” — Karl Shreeves

Contact: baresports.com

Before she turns them free, she guides them through the blanker slates of Riviera Maya’s underground realm — the caves with fewest decorations. But even those are not without beauty. Chikin Ha is one of her top picks for training full cave divers. Divers first pass through two cenotes lit by thick bands of sunlight. From there, darkness.

“Then it’s two big blocks of rock, and you can’t help but have that feeling of being under the earth,” says Figari. “It’s like being in a Gothic cathedral with all these different pieces of art.”

Inside, trainees work toward following a line in no visibility, handling a lost-diver scenario and sharing air in an overhead environment.

“I make students share air from the deepest point in the cave,” says Figari. “It’s meant to help them work on stress levels.”

When the way in and out is the same, and something happens after 40 minutes in, you have to swim out 40 minutes.

“The only thing that determines whether or not you come out is how you handle yourself,” she says. “The full cave course teaches you how to handle emotion and control the mind in these situations.”

The basics of that control are the same as with any dive course. It comes down to breathing. “If we breathe incorrectly, we cannot control the mind, and that is when we get into big trouble,” she says.

Once they prove themselves, divers are handed the keys to rooms holding even more fascinations, places like the cave Nohoch. Inside, tight passageways are lined with white formations.

“Everything is so small that you feel you should freeze, that just your presence could compromise this environment,” she says. But worry not. “No, of course it won’t. Otherwise, I wouldn’t take anyone there.”

Go Now: cavetrainingmexico.com


DPV CAVE DIVER

Now you’re going places — or, at least, you will be after the diver propulsion vehicle cave course.

Hollis H-160 Diver Propulsion Vehicle

Courtesy Hollis

Gear Essentials: Diver Propulsion Vehicle

“Using a DPV to explore caves is a technical challenge that demands you to be entirely in the moment — you need to be self-disciplined and detailed, and show you can follow the rules and stay within your limits. You should also have lots of prior cave experience — otherwise, you can get yourself into trouble in a hurry.” —Karl Shreeves

Contact: hollis.com

The main motivation for divers to commit to the DPV course might appear to be the intense pleasure of zipping through extended cave systems — a roller-coaster ride past exponentially more formations and decorations than with fins alone.

But there’s a much more practical reason as well: DPVs buy you time.

“You get decent bottom time while keeping reasonable decompression times,” says cave diving instructor Johnny Richards.

This is an understatement. Instead of draining your gas supply on stretches you’ve seen hundreds of times, you zip past the familiar and start your dive with the new.

Exploration 101.

As for the course itself, says Richards, “It’s fairly arduous —lots and lots of skills and drills, such as dead-scooter swims and dead-scooter tows.”

There’s not much on-scooter time during the course, but afterward, it’s free rein. For Richards, use of a DPV opens up places like the Super Room inside Eagle’s Nest, a cave in the town of Weeki Wachee, roughly an hour north of Tampa.
“It’s a big monster of a room with a lot of features and fossils — mostly shells; this was all ocean floor at one time,” says Richards.

In the Little River Spring system, about 90 minutes west of Jacksonville, Richards likes to tar- get the Florida Room before continuing on by fin.

“There’s a point where you must drop the scooter,” says Richards. “The cave becomes like a roller coaster in places — then it becomes tight, with high amounts of silt. From there, you can swim 3,400 feet to the end of the line.”
He’s quick to point out that divers should never actively pursue that marker as a goal.

Says Richards, “It’s something that will naturally occur at some point given time and experience.”

Go Now: cavediving.com


STAGE DIVER

“Cave Diving is all about expanding your comfort zone, step by step,” says Patrick Widmann, an advanced cave diving instructor in the Dominican Republic. The full cave diver course allows finishers to explore a cave using one-third of their tanks; stage cave diver teaches students how to safely add a cylinder to explore even farther.

Hollis SMS 75X Sidemount BC

Zach Stovall

Gear Essentials: Stage Rigging and Sidemount BC

“When you start using stage cylinders, you’ll need more regulators with submersible pressure gauges, and rigging for each. At all levels, sidemount has become a popular option. There’s no reason to be a backmount cave diver if you know you want to dive sidemount — get certified as a PADI tec sidemount diver.” — Karl Shreeves

Contact: hollis.com

Skills taught include team protocols and how to stage and retrieve tanks blind, which simulates a silt-out caused by a tank dropped atop sediment.

This course also aims to strengthen confidence, especially with distance stress — “your mind telling you that you are a long way from home,” Widmann says. “Distance stress never leaves you, even after thousands
of dives. It just becomes a question of when it will set in.”

And it happens farther in after more training dives. For the stage cave diver course, Widmann teaches primarily in two caves. Cueva Taina and El Dudu. Cueva Taina, near the Santo Domingo airport, presents students with a halocline followed by rooms of white walls, stalactites and columns. El Dudu lies near the town of Cabrera, two hours east of Puerto Plata on the northern coast. Past its giant sinkhole opening, the cave’s route, 20 feet deep, winds past unusual water colors, walls stained with tannins and rooms filled with dark-dwelling critters such as bats, scorpions and tarantulas.

When students complete the course, Widmann takes them to Manantial El Toro, a cave outside Punta Cana that is the country’s longest, requiring stages to explore.

Distance stress can be heightened from the start thanks to the cave’s dramatic entry. It’s a 30-minute hike from the car park, then you descend 130 feet by foot. “The entrance is mind-blowing,” says Widmann. “It’s a ginormous dry cave with tree roots hanging from the roof.”

El Toro’s warren unspools to a variety of rooms and terrain, all serving as mental practice for future cave settings. With each new hurdle, divers are tasked with monitoring distance stress.

“There’s a tunnel filled with really rare bacteria that stain the water an opal green,” says Widmann. “It’s studied by NASA scientists.”

Like Alice in Wonderland, divers must be prepared to feel small in a large room, or huge in a small space.

“Going through a room a plane could fly through is much different from a tunnel the size of a computer screen,” says Widmann.

Either way, he reminds divers that it’s not so much about the conditions, but how you handle them.

“If I perceive something as dangerous, my body will react that way with increased breathing rate and risk of accident,” says Widmann. “Rather, we’re training ourselves to perceive our environment as safe so our bodies stay relaxed.”

Go Now: dr-ss.com


What It’s Like To Be A Cave Diver

Cave Diver Jill Heinerth

Courtesy Jill Heinerth

“A privilege,” says filmmaker, photographer and Scuba Diving contributor Jill Heinerth. You can read why caving is so addictive in the November/December “What It’s Like” column from this caver, who is a member of the Explorers Club and Women Divers Hall of Fame, recipient of the Wyland ICON Award for making a difference for our water planet and the Sir Christopher Ondaatje Medal for Exploration from the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, and Scuba Diving‘s Sea Hero of the Year in 2012.

The Magic of Cave Diving: Five Training Courses You Need to Take Read More »

Ocean Action: Help Save Sharks with the Whale Shark Research Project

Underwater Photo Whale Shark Chasing Fish

Brandon Cole

Volunteer and help protect these gentle giants.

WHALE SHARK RESEARCH PROJECT

MISSION Generating marine conservation through researching whale sharks, preserving the marine ecosystem and encouraging the sustainable use of Mexico’s natural resources

HQ Baja California, Mexico

YEAR FOUNDED 2014

CONTACT info@whalesharkrp.com WEBSITE whalesharkrp.com

PROJECT Spanning up to 40 feet and weighing over 45,000 pounds, whale sharks are the ocean’s largest living fish. The Whale Shark Research Project is committed to conservation, scientific research, public awareness and education for these gentle giants.

HOW YOU CAN HELP

Volunteer

WSRP participants have the opportunity to spend between one and 10 weeks making a difference while exploring La Paz Bay, Espiritu Santo Island or Los Cabos in the Gulf of California. During your time volunteering, you’ll have the opportunity to learn data-collection techniques, monitor juvenile whale sharks, participate in field research and immerse yourself in Mexican culture.

Photograph

Akin to a human fingerprint, distinct spot patterns can be found around the shark’s gill area. Divers can upload whale shark photos to an online global identification database at whaleshark.org. After photos are submitted, spot-recognition software identifies the whale sharks, allowing scientists to follow their travels and analyze shark-sighting data to discover more about these mammoth fish.

Adopt

Support WSRP’s eforts by adopting your very own whale shark. Your shark won’t be coming home with you — instead it will remain wild and free while you receive updates on its journey through the ocean. After choosing either an annual adoption basis or a lifetime option, adopters are offered a life history of the shark along with a professional photograph of the newly adopted family member.

MORE VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

Save coral reefs in Little Cayman

Take a bite out of invasive lionfish

Get trashy with marine art

Ocean Action: Help Save Sharks with the Whale Shark Research Project Read More »

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